Oval Window on the Rue Vieille-du-Temple

Oil on Canvas

24” X 36” (61cm X 91cm)

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Leaving Île Saint-Louis, the quaint island in the Seine River that has been my home this past week, via the bridge at the island’s westerly tip and walking north along the Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, I enter the fashionable Marais district in Paris’s 4th arrondissement. As the road narrows and becomes Rue Vieille-du-Temple, the late afternoon light reveals variations in the colour and tone of the Lutetian limestone facades that had been hidden by the strong sunlight of the day.

Above the heads of the tourist throng, this simple oval window cries out to be noticed. The centrepiece of this narrow facade, this wonderfully decorated cameo window is transformed by the light into an elegant piece of boudoir objet d’art, an elegant and quintessentially Parisian piece of decor. It is this divinely decadent and yet delicate decoration that, for me, defines Paris.

Gargoyles on the Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois

Oil on Canvas

36” X 24” (91cm X 61cm)

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Directly in front of the main entrance to the Palais du Louvre, just across from the Rue de l’Amiral de Coligny and the Square Michel Caldaguès, is the Church of Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois. Widely regarded as the oldest church in Paris, its history is a torrid one. The first structure dates back to the 5th century, but this church, along with many subsequent churches, was destroyed and rebuilt on the same site, with the majority of the current structure being largely from the 15th century. During the French Revolution, the church was pillaged and converted into a barn for storing feed for animals, a printing shop, and, for a time, a gunpowder factory. The building was returned to the church in 1801 but suffered again during an anticlerical riot in 1831 when much of the church was damaged or destroyed.

These gargoyles sit at the end of the line of flying buttresses on the south wall, overlooking the narrow Rue des Prêtres Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois. Denied their original purpose of spouting rainwater away from the church walls and foundations by more modern technologies (rainwater pipes mounted at the feet of each gargoyle), they now crane their necks out from the ramparts to fulfill their solitary secondary function. According to a French legend, they protect against evil and harmful spirits.

This unique view of the petrified menagerie under starters orders is afforded by the second floor picture windows of the recently restored Samaritaine department store.

Narrow Facade, 13 Quai Voltaire

Oil on Canvas

24” X 48” (24cm X 122cm)

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This facade on the Quai Voltaire in Paris’ 7th arrondissement is so small that it is barely wider than the ground floor doorway. At just 2.5m wide, it is probably the narrowest building in Paris. The first-floor facade consists of a single narrow pair of glazed doors that open onto a tiny scalloped balcony. Above this, the smallest of second-floor windows and balconies are dwarfed by its impressive five and six storey neighbours. This astonishing narrowness is the result of a comically recurring architectural Parisian phenomenon. The Pioust hotel in Saint-Gilles, as it is now known, was designed on a plot of land, in fact a former access passageway, that remained vacant between existing buildings. The curious building seems to have grown, like a weed, between two richly tended succulent plants.

But this is no shrinking violet, the facade is as lavishly decorated as it is small. It is encrusted with dragons, lion heads, wreaths, scrolls, and mascarons. It is unabashed, unselfconscious of its diminutive stature.

Downpipe on the Louvre, Pavillon de la Trémoille

Oil on Canvas

24” X 36” (61cm X 91cm)

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Here, on the South side of The Louvre, where the Pont du Carrousel crosses the Seine, the arches of the Pavillon de la Trémoille provide impressive road access to the historic complex. The Pavilion itself is demarcated by a pair of towers that sit slightly higher than the adjacent roofline and project out from the rest of the elevation, creating recessed corners on either side. These recesses have been utilised to house enormous cast-iron rainwater downpipes that have been decorated, in keeping with the rest of the lavish decor, with an ornate organic pattern that spirals along their length.

However, when these elegant iron cylinders encounter the lip of the huge stone plinth that runs around the base of the pavilion, they are forced into an ungainly swan neck, thus breaking the clean vertical line. Clearly unsatisfied with this, the architects, in line with the wedding cake design philosophy employed throughout the Louvre, have added these cetaceans to ease this transition and facilitate the flow of the deluge around the step of the plinth. I very much mourn for the loss of a world in which ‘vomiting dolphins’ are hailed as the most agreeable solution in any design meeting, but alas, the world moves on. Odd they may be, but beautiful they are. Soaked in the warm glow of the afternoon sun, the thick patina of rust briefly becomes a cloak of vivid colour before it is taken by the gloom of dusk.

Hotel de Lamoignon, Rue Pavee

Oil on Canvas

36” X 24” (91cm X 61cm)

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The Hôtel de Lamoignon, earlier the Hôtel d’Angoulême, is a late 16th-century hôtel particulier, or grand townhouse, in the Marais district of Paris’ 4th arrondissement. It is renowned as the best-preserved house from this period in all of Paris. Like much of the Marais district, the building was abandoned by the aristocracy after the revolution and so throughout the 19th century housed workshops, stores, and factories. Since 1969, it has been the home of the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris.

In 1718, the widow of Chrétien-François, Marie-Jeanne de Lamoignon, had the current portal to the courtyard constructed. It features two carved putti, the one on the left holding a mirror symbolising truth, beauty, and the spiritual self, and the one on the right holding a snake symbolising prudence, healing, and fertility. It also provides a sheltered roost for the city’s pigeons.

Musée d’Orsay, Quai Valéry Giscard d’Estaing

Oil on Canvas

72” X 42” (183cm X 86cm)

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The Musée d’Orsay is located on the left bank of the Seine, overlooking the Édouard-Glissant promenade in the former Orsay station, built by Victor Laloux in 1900. This impressive structure was in its time an innovation, the first electrified urban terminal station anywhere in the world, and the pride and optimism are evident everywhere you look. But this optimism was to be short-lived. Advancements in the railways in the early 20th century led to the introduction of much longer mainline trains. Although the Gare d’Orsay offered a convenient central location, the site was restricted, and there was no possibility of lengthening the platforms to accommodate the new, longer trains. As a result, by 1939, the Gare d’Orsay had closed to long-distance traffic and was effectively no more after just 39 years.

This archway, emblazoned with Bordeaux – Toulouse, is one of seven such former entrances that grace the Quai Valéry Giscard d’Estaing.

Société de Géographie, 184 Boulevard Saint-Germain

Oil on Canvas

32” X 32” (81cm X 81cm)

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The Société de Géographie, in English, “The Geography Society,” is the oldest geographical society in the world. It was founded in 1821 to greater the understanding of the globe and offer support for foreign exploration.

Since 1878, the society’s headquarters have been here at 184 Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris. The building’s entrance is proudly marked by these two gigantic caryatids representing Land and Sea, standing on either side of a terrestrial globe sculpted by French engraver and sculptor Émile Soldi.

This entrance provides a personal connection back to my studio in Panama, for it was right here, in 1879, that the construction of the first Panama Canal was decided upon. An event that gave the buildings of Casco Antiguo their distinctly French flavour.